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Title THE UNUSUAL AND
THE TABOO: PLACENTA Shock Factor Aside, Is Placenta Actually...
Posted by jolse (ip:)
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  • Date 2020-03-17 12:54:54
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THE UNUSUAL AND THE TABOO: PLACENTA

 

ELAINE VEGA on MARCH 13, 2020


Taboo topics are always entertaining and highly engaging. Who would disagree?


In Korean skincare, I adore adventurous ingredients that test boundaries because of how it directly influences educational awareness and growth. When trying out products, whichever ingredient strikes me as the most unusual, almost unheard of or most viscerally provoking…becomes a winner. The excitement in learning about the ingredient itself, how and why it’s being used and what the product does for my skin never fails. Taboo ingredients are the launchpads to an exciting journey of knowledge explored only by relativity. Unless you come across a product advertising the ingredient of seaweed, charcoal or placenta how else would you be acquainted with such an opportunity to learn?


 

THE BREAKDOWN

Placenta is used in skincare because it is a natural endocrine organ that contains an abundance of biologically active compounds of hormones, proteins, peptides, and additional growth factors. When these compounds are absorbed topically, the stem cells become multi-functional in the below ways:


1. Boosts Collagen Synthesis
2. Increases Cell Regeneration
3. Increases Hydration
4. Speeds Up Wound Healing
5. Protects Against UV Damage
6. Brightens the Skin

MYTH OR TRUTH

‘No way’, I thought with fascinated disgust, ‘Companies use this from a person??’


Technically, yes and no. While most companies use placenta tissue taken from bovine (cows), porcine (pigs) and ovine (sheep) which is then sterilized and added to the skincare product, as a rarity some companies do reveal they use women’s placenta. Potential ethical issues have yet to be publicized and the assuming health benefits have been slowly scientifically-backed over the years.


How placenta’s benefits work in skincare is also a light mystery eagerly wanting to be proved. While the stem cells do become multi-functional when the placenta’s compounds are added, how the effects directly translate to skin for long-term support as advertised in specific skincare products is as equally vague as the companies’ practices.


Studies from researchers worldwide are coming out proving these immediate relationships one confirmation at a time. Most advertised long-term benefits like ‘anti-aging’ and ‘rejuvenation’ currently are considered ‘potential benefits’ by experts, that is until studies like the below provide unshakable scientific confirmations:


- Korean Journal for Food Science of Animal Resources confirms that pig placenta extract reduces UV wrinkle formation and significantly prevents collagen degradation, which helps to keep skin smooth and plump.

- Graduate scholars from Kanazawa University in Japan confirm that pig placenta stimulates the collagen production in human fibroblast cells, which prevents anti-aging, brightens the skin and significantly improves elasticity.


While the hype of using placenta is growing, being mindful over what is scientifically proven will help you navigate purchasing amongst the growing number of advertised products. As the trend continues to grow, I think in time public information about the companies’ ethical production practices will be revealed…so we will find out soon, won’t we?


THE PRODUCTS AND THE REVIEWS

After much research, I couldn’t help to test and explore two of the most known ‘placenta’ products currently on the Korean skincare market. Both products are under the reputable and mainstream Mizon company and are packaged together as a serum and cream combination.


Mizon markets itself as one of the first companies to promote placenta’s benefits supported by ‘advanced professional research’. Let’s hope they actually did their homework. I’ve used Mizon’s bee venom-based products in the past and found them to be effective, so I had some expectations for their Original Skin Energy Placenta 45 and Placenta Ampoule Cream. Both products use placenta extracts from a mammal but have not identified which type.


ORIGINAL SKIN ENERGY PLACENTA 45

Mizon uses 45% placenta extract in this serum manufactured from the EFC method. Not understanding what the EFC method is, especially since the placenta ingredient process is known for being vague, I tried looking up the meaning with difficulty only to find the common phrase equivalent force control method revealed within dense scientific jargon in a research article published by Wu, Wang, Shing and Out in 2007. I hope this is part of their ‘advanced professional research’ 😉


The Original Skin Energy Placenta 45 is marketed a few ways:


1. Improves the resilience of facial skin aka anti-aging and brightens the tone

2. Activates cell regeneration to restore radiant and healthy skin

3. Protects against the environment and helps skin renewal


The serum is highly concentrated and rich in amino acids and minerals. I recognize this from the instant hydration after application and appreciate the lightweight feeling of the liquid. It holds well without being over runny and spreads smoothly and far-reaching across my face. I like that only a couple of drops covers a large area. Used after toner and before the heavier serums, there is little stickiness that dries quickly. There are also no parabens, artificial colors, and fragrance.


TIP: BECAUSE THESE TWO PRODUCTS GO HAND-IN-HAND, MIZON RECOMMENDS TO MIX A DROP OR TWO OF THE SERUM WITH THE CREAM TO SUPPORT THE PLACENTA’S BENEFITS.


PLACENTA AMPOULE CREAM

Also using a high concentration of 45% of an unnamed mammal’s placenta extract, the cream also shares similar characteristics to the respective serum: lightweight, easily spread with strong coverage and instant hydration. I really like the texture of the cream itself in that it’s lightweight quality reminds me of whipped or frosted cream. I’m pleasantly surprised by the texture and find it easy to assimilate with other creams I use both morning and night.


Mizon advertises the cream to provide nourishment, elasticity, protection and moisturized radiant skin while also working towards whitening, wrinkle care, and regeneration. It will take time to judge the long-term latter benefits, but I do recognize the more immediate effects. Four qualities, in particular, have stood out:


1. Post-application my pores have not clogged

2. There is no leftover residue

3. Skin protection from Raspberry extracts, which prevent excessively produced oxidants

4. Skin-soothing from it’s complex so irritations lessen when applying other chemically-heavy  serums and/or lotions


Using this combination of both the serum and cream is a refreshing product of hydration and cleanliness during and post-application. If you’re not squeamish about the taboo ingredient, I recommend trying these products if your skin is in need of instant moisture. Feel free to find them online at Jolse: Serum and Cream.




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